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Slow-cooked leek pappardelle with crispy white beans and lemon

This recipe sings in its simplicity and depth of flavour. Plus: five golden rules for cooking pasta

There is no food I can evangelise about more than pasta. The toothsome chew, a silky sauce that hugs each piece … It cooks in little more than 10 minutes, it’s an unrivalled vehicle for flavour and it sates the appetite whatever the season (but most excellently as the months grow colder).

As a young chef, I spent a lot of time in a kitchen that championed Italian cuisine, so my cooking is rooted in that tradition. There are five things I learned there about cooking pasta. For keen cooks, pasta enthusiasts and Italians, none of this will be new, and many will have their own ideas, but these are the things that work for me:

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